Himalayan Travel Diary
“Happiness never decreases by being shared.” – Buddha
A perfect quote for a journey like mine. This trip has been incredible and deeply moving. Even though I had always dreamed of coming to Bhutan and returning to Nepal, I wasn’t prepared for such an emotional impact. At times, the emotions were so overwhelming that I was moved to tears. I experienced unforgettable moments… Here’s a look back at an extraordinary week on the path of Buddha.
I spent 8 days in Bhutan and Nepal to prepare the group trip I’m organizing in late October and early November. The goal was to find the best hotels, uncover off-the-beaten-track activities, and refine the initial program. You’ll find all the practical information about the Nepal trip on this page and about the Bhutan trip on this one.
Back to my scouting trip. I was joined by Viney, my Indian partner who runs a travel agency in Delhi, and we were welcomed by our local partners: Lhendup for Bhutan and Srithi for Nepal. On the practical side, mission accomplished: I visited at least a hundred hotels and managed to find some real gems for every destination! For example, in Thimphu, the capital of Bhutan, I found a hotel where each room is a private cabin in the forest, with large bay windows. Or a traditional Nepalese house in the heart of Patan that’s been transformed into a boutique hotel.
A quick note: This trip was organized to prepare the group tour, and my itinerary didn’t match the group’s future program. I spent most of my time handling logistical aspects (hotels, transfers, visits, etc.) and wasn’t able to do all the activities planned for the group. For example, in Paro, there’s the famous Tiger’s Nest monastery, which requires a 4-hour hike to reach — I simply didn’t have time to do it.
Himalayan Travel Diary – Part 1: Bhutan
I arrived in Bhutan first, and within 24 hours, I had fallen in love with the country. This Buddhist kingdom was long closed to foreigners and even today refuses mass tourism. A $100 daily tax per person and the obligation to work with a local Bhutanese agency allow the country to protect itself from over-tourism. Lhendup first took us to visit the Buddha Dordenma, a gigantic statue of Shakyamuni Buddha that overlooks Thimphu.
We then headed to Punakha, where I was emotionally overwhelmed twice within a few hours. The first time was at Chimi Lhakhang, also known as the Temple of Fertility. Upon entering the monastery, I stumbled upon a ceremony where monks were chanting and playing traditional instruments. I felt like I was in the film Seven Years in Tibet… It was pure magic. And the cherry on top: Lhendup told me he could arrange a similar private ceremony for the group joining me in Bhutan this November…
Then came our visit to the Punakha Dzong, a former fortress turned monastery. I had never seen such a magnificent building. And the monks running everywhere? After Seven Years in Tibet, I felt like I was in Little Buddha, which was filmed here in Bhutan… And then, boom. The main hall, with its statue of Buddha and other deities, completely overwhelmed me. I couldn’t move or speak. Photos are prohibited inside monasteries, but this was a moment I’ll never forget and one I know will have a lasting impact on me.
The next day, in the Thimphu region, I had the privilege of attending the dress rehearsal of a Buddhist festival held in a monastery. Another timeless moment surrounded by monks, musicians, and dancers. Truly amazing.
We then visited Gangtey Goenpa Monastery—yet another sublime place. Another day under Buddha’s protection. And as I listened to Lhendup explain the philosophy of Buddhism, I realized I need to dive back into it and learn more. I had no idea this trip would touch me so deeply…
Then we headed to Paro, a town known for the “Tiger’s Nest” monastery, perched on a cliff and accessible only on foot after a 3-hour hike. Unfortunately, I didn’t have time to go there or to visit the other must-see sites in Paro. That will have to wait until November. But I did spend the day wearing a gho, Bhutan’s traditional national dress for men. The front pocket is huge—it can even fit a laptop—and it’s super practical.
Himalayan Travel Diary – Part 2: Nepal
Oh my, how I love Kathmandu! I hadn’t been back in at least 35 years, and once again, I was amazed. I’ve never seen a city with so many temples. In Kathmandu, the number of sanctuaries per square meter is mind-blowing. Nepal is a deeply religious country, with 80% of the population being Hindu and 10% Buddhist. But the city also feels like a bustling Indian metropolis, with undeniable charm.
Luckily, on my first day in Nepal, I was finally able to do a bit of sightseeing. Kathmandu Valley has seven UNESCO World Heritage Sites. I started with Swayambhunath, also known as the Monkey Temple—one of the most sacred Buddhist stupas in Nepal.
Then I visited Hanuman Dhoka Durbar Square and the incredible Boudhanath Stupa—one of my favorite places in Kathmandu.
And then, an incredible stroke of luck: I stumbled upon a Tibetan festival down a narrow alley. Hundreds of monks! Buddha has been by my side throughout this trip.
I ended the day at the Hindu temple of Pashupatinath. This city is overflowing with beauty, devotion, and spirituality.
We left Kathmandu and made a stop in Bhaktapur, a breathtakingly beautiful city and UNESCO World Heritage Site. It’s one of the best-preserved medieval cities in the Kathmandu Valley. The number of temples, pagodas, statues, and cobbled streets is absolutely astonishing. Bhaktapur is also known for its traditional crafts, especially pottery, which can still be seen being made by hand in the central squares. A true immersion into old Nepal—rich in spirituality, architecture, and heritage.
We spent the night in Nagarkot, the highest point in the Kathmandu Valley (2,200 m). The next day was packed: beyond checking hotels, we visited Changu Narayan Temple and the town of Panauti, considered one of the most important medieval sites in the region. Stunning.
And then… another emotional shock: Namo Buddha Monastery. Built in honor of a pivotal moment in Buddha’s life—when he sacrificed himself to save a starving tigress and her five cubs. As we toured the monastery, we suddenly heard chanting and stumbled upon a hundred young monks, aged 8 to 15, taking an exam. Another moment suspended in time…
To end the trip, we headed to Patan, also called Lalitpur, the “City of Beauty.” A true architectural gem, with its narrow alleys, brick houses with carved balconies, and countless temples. And then, my final crush: a private boutique hotel housed in a traditional Nepalese home with just fifteen rooms. So much charm! I’ve decided to revise the itinerary for the October group and add a night in Patan.
And there you have it… Eight absolutely incredible days, and this is only the highlight reel. So many unimaginable experiences, beautiful encounters, and breathtaking sights that words fail me…
There are still a few spots left for the October–November trip. Registration is open! Here’s the program:
NEPAL – October 24 to 31 https://once-upon-atime.com/en/tour-item/nepal-between-sky-and-earth/
BHUTAN – October 31 to November 7 https://once-upon-atime.com/en/tour-item/bhutan/
Send me an email and I’ll get back to you as soon as possible!
A perfect quote for a journey like mine. This trip has been incredible and deeply moving. Even though I had always dreamed of coming to Bhutan and returning to Nepal, I wasn’t prepared for such an emotional impact. At times, the emotions were so overwhelming that I was moved to tears. I experienced unforgettable moments… Here’s a look back at an extraordinary week on the path of Buddha.
I spent 8 days in Bhutan and Nepal to prepare the group trip I’m organizing in late October and early November. The goal was to find the best hotels, uncover off-the-beaten-track activities, and refine the initial program. You’ll find all the practical information about the Nepal trip on this page and about the Bhutan trip on this one.
Back to my scouting trip. I was joined by Viney, my Indian partner who runs a travel agency in Delhi, and we were welcomed by our local partners: Lhendup for Bhutan and Srithi for Nepal. On the practical side, mission accomplished: I visited at least a hundred hotels and managed to find some real gems for every destination! For example, in Thimphu, the capital of Bhutan, I found a hotel where each room is a private cabin in the forest, with large bay windows. Or a traditional Nepalese house in the heart of Patan that’s been transformed into a boutique hotel.
A quick note: This trip was organized to prepare the group tour, and my itinerary didn’t match the group’s future program. I spent most of my time handling logistical aspects (hotels, transfers, visits, etc.) and wasn’t able to do all the activities planned for the group. For example, in Paro, there’s the famous Tiger’s Nest monastery, which requires a 4-hour hike to reach — I simply didn’t have time to do it.
Himalayan Travel Diary – Part 1: Bhutan
I arrived in Bhutan first, and within 24 hours, I had fallen in love with the country. This Buddhist kingdom was long closed to foreigners and even today refuses mass tourism. A $100 daily tax per person and the obligation to work with a local Bhutanese agency allow the country to protect itself from over-tourism. Lhendup first took us to visit the Buddha Dordenma, a gigantic statue of Shakyamuni Buddha that overlooks Thimphu.
We then headed to Punakha, where I was emotionally overwhelmed twice within a few hours. The first time was at Chimi Lhakhang, also known as the Temple of Fertility. Upon entering the monastery, I stumbled upon a ceremony where monks were chanting and playing traditional instruments. I felt like I was in the film Seven Years in Tibet… It was pure magic. And the cherry on top: Lhendup told me he could arrange a similar private ceremony for the group joining me in Bhutan this November…
Then came our visit to the Punakha Dzong, a former fortress turned monastery. I had never seen such a magnificent building. And the monks running everywhere? After Seven Years in Tibet, I felt like I was in Little Buddha, which was filmed here in Bhutan… And then, boom. The main hall, with its statue of Buddha and other deities, completely overwhelmed me. I couldn’t move or speak. Photos are prohibited inside monasteries, but this was a moment I’ll never forget and one I know will have a lasting impact on me.
The next day, in the Thimphu region, I had the privilege of attending the dress rehearsal of a Buddhist festival held in a monastery. Another timeless moment surrounded by monks, musicians, and dancers. Truly amazing.
We then visited Gangtey Goenpa Monastery—yet another sublime place. Another day under Buddha’s protection. And as I listened to Lhendup explain the philosophy of Buddhism, I realized I need to dive back into it and learn more. I had no idea this trip would touch me so deeply…
Then we headed to Paro, a town known for the “Tiger’s Nest” monastery, perched on a cliff and accessible only on foot after a 3-hour hike. Unfortunately, I didn’t have time to go there or to visit the other must-see sites in Paro. That will have to wait until November. But I did spend the day wearing a gho, Bhutan’s traditional national dress for men. The front pocket is huge—it can even fit a laptop—and it’s super practical.
Himalayan Travel Diary – Part 2: Nepal
Oh my, how I love Kathmandu! I hadn’t been back in at least 35 years, and once again, I was amazed. I’ve never seen a city with so many temples. In Kathmandu, the number of sanctuaries per square meter is mind-blowing. Nepal is a deeply religious country, with 80% of the population being Hindu and 10% Buddhist. But the city also feels like a bustling Indian metropolis, with undeniable charm.
Luckily, on my first day in Nepal, I was finally able to do a bit of sightseeing. Kathmandu Valley has seven UNESCO World Heritage Sites. I started with Swayambhunath, also known as the Monkey Temple—one of the most sacred Buddhist stupas in Nepal.
Then I visited Hanuman Dhoka Durbar Square and the incredible Boudhanath Stupa—one of my favorite places in Kathmandu.
And then, an incredible stroke of luck: I stumbled upon a Tibetan festival down a narrow alley. Hundreds of monks! Buddha has been by my side throughout this trip.
I ended the day at the Hindu temple of Pashupatinath. This city is overflowing with beauty, devotion, and spirituality.
We left Kathmandu and made a stop in Bhaktapur, a breathtakingly beautiful city and UNESCO World Heritage Site. It’s one of the best-preserved medieval cities in the Kathmandu Valley. The number of temples, pagodas, statues, and cobbled streets is absolutely astonishing. Bhaktapur is also known for its traditional crafts, especially pottery, which can still be seen being made by hand in the central squares. A true immersion into old Nepal—rich in spirituality, architecture, and heritage.
We spent the night in Nagarkot, the highest point in the Kathmandu Valley (2,200 m). The next day was packed: beyond checking hotels, we visited Changu Narayan Temple and the town of Panauti, considered one of the most important medieval sites in the region. Stunning.
And then… another emotional shock: Namo Buddha Monastery. Built in honor of a pivotal moment in Buddha’s life—when he sacrificed himself to save a starving tigress and her five cubs. As we toured the monastery, we suddenly heard chanting and stumbled upon a hundred young monks, aged 8 to 15, taking an exam. Another moment suspended in time…
To end the trip, we headed to Patan, also called Lalitpur, the “City of Beauty.” A true architectural gem, with its narrow alleys, brick houses with carved balconies, and countless temples. And then, my final crush: a private boutique hotel housed in a traditional Nepalese home with just fifteen rooms. So much charm! I’ve decided to revise the itinerary for the October group and add a night in Patan.
And there you have it… Eight absolutely incredible days, and this is only the highlight reel. So many unimaginable experiences, beautiful encounters, and breathtaking sights that words fail me…
There are still a few spots left for the October–November trip. Registration is open! Here’s the program:
NEPAL – October 24 to 31 https://once-upon-atime.com/en/tour-item/nepal-between-sky-and-earth/
BHUTAN – October 31 to November 7 https://once-upon-atime.com/en/tour-item/bhutan/
Send me an email and I’ll get back to you as soon as possible!
