Nepal: Between Sky and Earth
Prologue: The Journey Begins
Where does a journey that embraces two countries begin? In Nepal first, then Bhutan. Some join only for Kathmandu and its valleys, others only for Paro and its hanging monasteries, but most of the group experiences both, a continuous breath, from stupa to dzong, from mantra to mountain.
This is not a “group” in the usual sense, it is a constellation. Among the 25 participants, over 12 nationalities shine together, and 90% are students from my yoga classes. Some are even on their fourth or fifth journey with me. We don’t just travel side by side; we reunite, we recognize one another, moving with the same joyful curiosity, the same respect for cultures and places, the same desire to be transformed by the road.
As always, I travel a few months in advance as a scout: walking, meeting, listening, choosing. Selecting places with a soul, refining the rhythm, making sure every sunrise has its horizon. I wrote about this scouting trip in a dedicated article that you will find on this page. Only then does the itinerary take shape, becoming a living promise.
Day 1: Kathmandu, Between Devotion and Golden Dust
Kathmandu is a feast for the senses, spiritual, noisy, colorful, alive. The valley has seven UNESCO World Heritage Sites, each telling a fragment of Nepal’s soul, and we will visit them all. We begin at Durbar Square, the historic heart of the city, where temples rise like wooden sculptures and alleys hum with prayers and laughter. Then comes the Old Market, a maze of scents and colors, where flowers, colored powders, and offerings blend together.
The day ends at Swayambhunath, the “Monkey Temple,” perched on its hill overlooking the valley. The wind carries the sound of prayer wheels and the fragrance of sandalwood: a first contact, a first elevation.
Day 2: Between Stillness and Energy
The day begins in the calm of Kopan Monastery, perched on a hill above the valley. It is a place where silence has meaning, where every wall seems to breathe wisdom. The monks welcome visitors with gentleness, and the atmosphere naturally invites introspection, surrounded by incense and Tibetan chants.
We then head to Boudhanath, one of the largest stupas in the world, crowned with a benevolent gaze that seems to watch over all of humanity. We have lunch on a terrace overlooking the white dome while learning about the symbols of this sacred architecture. Around us, pilgrims walk in circles, spinning prayer wheels in a soft, rhythmic murmur.
In the late afternoon, we visit Pashupatinath, the major Hindu site dedicated to Shiva. Here, the sacred is lived without filter: offerings, chants, cremations along the Bagmati River. It is a place that moves, confronts, and humbles, a mirror of the cycle of life and death. The day ends softly with a yoga session in the hotel gardens at sunset. The sounds of the city fade, the breath deepens, and Nepal slowly settles within us.
Day 3: From Red Brick to Eternal Snow
This morning we head to Bhaktapur, the medieval jewel of the Kathmandu Valley. Built entirely of red brick and carved wood, the city feels suspended in time. Every alley opens onto a courtyard filled with temples, statues, and potters at work. The air is rich with incense and history. It is a living city, beautifully preserved, where the grace of ancient Nepal still lingers.
Before getting back on the road, we visit Changu Narayan, a thousand-year-old temple suspended between sky and forest, where the Newar carvings seem to whisper their legends. In the afternoon, we take the road to Nagarkot, winding through villages and terraced rice fields. As the road climbs, the air becomes cooler and lighter. A peaceful walk allows us to take in the calm of the hills and the beauty of the landscape.
By evening we reach Nagarkot, perched at over 2,000 meters. From the hotel terrace, the view opens onto a sea of mountains and, on clear days, even to the Himalayas themselves, sometimes as far as Everest. The sunset is pure magic. The evening ends with a yoga session at dusk, facing the infinite horizon. A moment of pure peace, between sky and earth.
Day 4: Light of Namo Buddha, Charm of Patan
We begin the day with a yoga session, our bodies still wrapped in the softness of the morning. Then we take the road to Namo Buddha, one of the most sacred Buddhist sites in Nepal. Legend tells of a young prince who offered his life to a starving tigress and her cubs, an act of compassion that became a timeless symbol of devotion. There, I arranged a private meeting with a monk who spoke to us about Buddhism, compassion, meditation, and the place of gratitude in daily life. His words, simple and luminous, touched every one of us. The silence of the monastery, punctuated by the deep sound of Tibetan horns, did the rest.
In the late afternoon, we arrive in Patan, one of the three royal cities of the valley. I had fallen in love with this place during my scouting trip, and I knew immediately I wanted to bring the group here. I had found beautiful hotels hidden within the old town, once traditional Newar houses carefully restored. The charm is instant: ochre walls, carved wood, lattice balconies, narrow lanes echoing with evening footsteps. Patan falls asleep slowly, and we with it, wrapped in serenity.
Day 5: Patan, the Elegance of the Newars
A peaceful awakening in the heart of Patan, surrounded by the morning sounds of temple bells, footsteps, and the rustle of offerings. The city awakens gently, bathed in golden light. We set out to explore this city of artisans, considered the most refined of the valley’s ancient capitals. Its alleys are filled with workshops where Newar masters sculpt metal, wood, and stone with meditative precision.
Patan’s Durbar Square unfolds in quiet splendor: temples, statues, and fountains form a unique architectural symphony where Hinduism and Buddhism coexist in perfect harmony. Every corner holds a surprise, a hidden stupa, a finely carved door, a smile freely given. Patan captivates with its balance, a vibrant yet tranquil city that one always leaves with a touch of nostalgia.
Day 6: Kathmandu, Final Glimmers of Nepal
Our last morning in the Kathmandu Valley. After so many temples, smiles, and golden dust, the day feels lighter, freer. Everyone takes the time to revisit their favorite places: some wander again through Patan’s alleys, others explore Thamel’s lively markets filled with spices, silk scarves, singing bowls, and ritual treasures. It is a day for slow wandering, for small purchases and long conversations, as memories quietly weave themselves into our bags. And at the end of the day, one last yoga session on Nepalese soil.
That evening, we gather for a farewell dinner, laughter mingling with a touch of emotion. Four participants leave us here, their hearts full of images and gratitude. Tomorrow we fly to Bhutan, the “Kingdom of Happiness.” There, four new travelers will join us, ready to write the next chapter of this Himalayan adventure. Nepal, meanwhile, has already conquered every heart.